Living In Fifties Fashion: November 2017

Nina Ricci Designed Couture Galore

After building an exclusive and loyal clientele for 24 years at The House of Raffin, Nina Ricci entered the couture fashion world in 1932 when she and her son Robert founded The House of Ricci.

Nina Ricci was the figurehead of the soon to be successful couture salon while Robert attended to the business aspect.

Rose Pink illustration by Christian Berard for The House of Ricci Fragrance Coeur-Joie

Nina Ricci Coeur-Joie Perfume
Launched 1947
Christian Bérard Illustration

The House of Ricci built on their early successes with the highest quality of designs, fabrics, and workmanship while undercutting the better known Parisian designers. She secured her clientele's loyalty by extending a gentile and discreet design experience.

Charles James Poetic Creations

Charles James was so highly regarded by the 1950's fashion world that Christian Dior called his work "poetry" and Balenciaga praised his dressmaking skills as "pure art form."

Red Charles James Hat with black tassel from 1952 displayed on mannequin head

Charles James Hat 1952
©Metropolitan Museum
Gift of Mr. Harold Stevenson
and Mr. and Mrs. Miguel Ferreras

Considered to be America's first true couturier, James' zenith extended three decades with his architecturally sculptured ballgowns his undisputed jewels.

His creations were worn by society's most glamorous clientele, including Paleys, Hearsts, and Whitneys. His most devoted patron was Millicent Huddleston Rogers.

Charles James was born July 18, 1906 in Sandhurst, England where his father was stationed as an Army officer.

In 1924, with assistance from a family friend, James assumed an architecture department desk job in his mother's hometown of Chicago with Commonwealth Edison. He would later apply to couture the technical aspects he learned in the architecture department.

By 1926, he was ready to open a millinery shop. Two years later, James added a clothing line and moved his salon to Manhattan. Between the two world wars, he owned ateliers in Paris, London, and New York. He became one of America's most expensive couturiers.

James' instinctive ability to imagine a complex pattern in his mind's eye and then to wrap and drape the material into structural masterpieces shot him to the forefront of fashion couture.

Vintage Black Friday Shopping

How many are shopping Black Friday sales? Are you shopping at Saks Fifth Avenue?

Magazine ad for Saks Fifth Avenue showing woman in suit with gloves and wide brimmed hat by Tatiana

Ad for Saks Fifth Avenue 1956
Hat by Tatiana

The brainchild of Horace Saks and Bernard Gimbel, Saks Fifth Avenue opened their dream store on September 15, 1924. Shoppers in furs and pearls mobbed the sales floor.

Happy Thanksgiving

Each day I am thankful for nights that turned into mornings, friends that turned into family, dreams that turned into reality, and likes that turned into love. Most importantly though, I am thankful for you today and everyday." Anonymous

Nina Leen photograph of model Joan Wilson cooking in 1950's era kitchen

Nina Leen 1950
Google Life

We are taking a few days off to prepare for the holidays. Everyone be safe and don't forget about us.

Happy Thanksgiving

Jean Dessés, The King of Chiffon

If Madame Grés is the undisputed master of draped silk, jersey, and chiffon, we will name Jean Dessés the 'King of Chiffon'.

Born August 6, 1904 in Egypt to Greek parents, Jean Dessés left his law studies in 1925 to work with a couture house in Paris. He opened his own fashion salon in 1937. Despite having to compete with the better known designers Chanel and Balenciaga, his first collection was a success.

Ice Blue evening gown with intricate draping and pleating on fashion illustration by Jean Dessés

Jean Dessés Fashion Illustration 1950

Drawing from his extensive travels after World War II and bowing to his Grecian heritage, Dessés built a reputation on his twisted sash and bodice marvels made of draped and pleated chiffon and mousseline.

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Rouge Boutique Half Moon Bay

My tastes change but this is currently my favorite look. Don't you love the cardigan?

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Yves Saint Laurent, a Fashion Giant at 17

Yves Saint Laurent's was only 21 when he succeeded Paris' haute couture master Christian Dior. Saint Laurent was born to a relatively wealthy family in Oran, Algeria on August 1, 1936. A nervous teenager, he spent most of his free time designing dresses for his mother and two sisters.

The teenager attended fashion school for only a short time when his mother introduced him to the editor for French Vogue, Michael de Brunhoff. De Brunhoff was impressed with Saint Laurent's sketches and arranged a meeting with Christian Dior. Dior hired him immediately. He was only 17.

Light rose short evening dress with bows at hemline by Yves Saint Laurent for House of Dior Spring/Summer 1958 displayed on dress form

Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 1958
For House of Dior
©Metropolitan Museum
Gift of Mrs. Hugh J Chisholm, Jr.

Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent quickly gained acclaim for his designs. Recognizing his influence on those early designs, Saint Laurent would later recall his time with Dior, "He taught me the basis of my art."

The Crown Jewel of Costumes

One of the most prolific costumers in film history, William Travilla is best known for designing Marilyn Monroe's "subway dress" in The Seven Year Itch.

Called the "flying skirt" scene, Miss Monroe is standing atop a subway grate with the upward breeze sending the skirt of her now iconic dress billowing about her legs.

Marilyn Monroe in scene from Seven Year Itch where white dress billows around her showing her legs

Marilyn Monroe in William Travilla Costume
Seven Year Itch 1955
WikiCommons

While considered quite provocative in 1955, what I see in the pose that is said to have prompted the Monroe and DiMaggio divorce, is a beautiful young woman trying to keep her perfectly pleated dress from flying above her head. I see a glimpse of modest panties (she wore two pairs of panties) fitted snugly to well-toned thighs. I see her wearing stylish slingback heels and wonder how often those pretty heels got caught in the subway grate.

Front view of ivory colored dress with pleated skirt and halter neck designed by William Travilla for Marilyn Monroe in The Seven Year Itch

William Travilla "Subway Dress" Costume from Seven Year Itch
Worn by Marilyn Monroe
©Liveauctioneers

A seasoned costume designer credited in over thirty films, William Travilla had no reason to expect his designs from The Seven Year Itch would bring him special notoriety. Yet this dress would propel him, as well as Marilyn Monroe, into movie image history.

Polka Dot Fun

Other than the cute polka dot dress, this poster by French artist Bernard Villemot for Bally shoes has nothing to do with fifties fashion. Isn't it FUN though?

See how cleverly we are told this is an advertisement for both men's and women's shoes.

Bernard Villemot Poster for Bally Shoes
©Liveauctioneers

If we were a blog about art, we would tell you that Villemot has been referred to as "the finest French artist in 50 years." He won the prestigious Martini Gold Medal in 1957. Upon his death in 1989, he was said to be the last great poster painter.

Please see our polka dot dresses page HERE.

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Polka Dot Dress Pinboard

The Many Talents of Pauline Trigère

Like her signature jewelry, Pauline Trigère was multifaceted.

Although Paris born, her reply when asked if she was French was, "No, I am American. I found in this country everything I wanted. This country made me Pauline Trigère."

Lisa Fonssagrives standing beside Pauline Trigère at base of staircase being fitted for dress

Lisa Fonssagrives in fitting with Pauline Trigère
©Liveauctioneers

Trigère immigrated from Paris to America in 1937. She describes her decision to open her own fashion studio in 1942 as, "There was no drive because I wanted to become a great designer....I had two small children and a mother, and we all had to eat. That's the drive I had."

Trigère signature looks included the use of furs not only in coats but in evening wear. Her evening wear designs often featured her trademark halter dress with bare shoulders.

Pauline Trigere nude colored 1950's halter neck evening dress displayed on mannequin

Pauline Trigère 1950's Halter Neck Evening Dress
©Liveauctioneers

After achieving fashion design success, Trigère branched out into the lingerie, perfume, and jewelry market, She fashioned barrettes, pins, and brooches out of a crystallized strontium titanate medium. When properly cut her "Trigère Diamonds" looked real.

Barbie You're Beautiful

Although there has been controversy and legal litigation regarding who invented the most famous doll in history, most experts agree that Jack Ryan, as the Chief Designer for Mattel Creations, engineered Barbie's physical form. Jack Ryan was born on this date in 1926.

The Barbie legacy began in the late 1950's when the co-founder of Mattel, Ruth Handler, pioneered an innovative doll design that turned millions of girls into fashionista petites. She named the doll Barbie after her daughter Barbara.

Moms and Dads everywhere responded to the ads for the new doll and Barbie became a fashion sensation.

Many have questioned the message the culturally iconic doll sends impressionable young girls and whether Barbie's perfect proportions damage children's self esteem.

After half a century, Mattel has bowed to these body image concerns and given Barbie a makeover. She now features three different body types and a variety of skin tones and hairstyles.

Wartime Fashions

Interesting commentary on wartime rationing and its effect on the fashions from the 1940's.

Veteran's Day Salute to American Designers

With respect, honor, and gratitude, Living In Fifties Fashion would like to offer a Veteran's Day salute to all of our service personnel.

While the following fashion designers may not have seen actual combat, their patriotism is evident in their contributions.

Navy Recruitment Ad for WAVES during WWII showing boy saluting WAVE officer

Navy Recruitment Ad for WAVES
Mainbocher Designed Uniforms

Recruitment Ad for SPARS enlistees with women in uniform holding large US flag

SPARS Recruitment Ad
Mainbocher Designed Uniforms

United States Naval Reserve (Women's Reserves) or better known as WAVES, an acronym for Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service and The United States Coast Guard Women's Reserve or SPARS uniforms were designed by the well-known haute couture designer Mainbocher.

Balenciaga In The Springtime

Although fall has barely made its entrance here in the Americas, the Spring/Summer 2018 fashion collections debuted months ago.

However spectacular they appear to be, none compare to Balenciaga's Spring/Summer collections.

Rose printed shoes from Balenciaga's Spring/Summer 1958 collection

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 1958

Gift of Rachel L. Mellon

©Metropolitan Museum

Rose printed garden party dress from Balenciaga's spring/summer 1958 collection

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 1958
Gift of Rachel L. Mellon
©Metropolitan Museum

Red two piece suit from Balenciaga's Spring/Summer 1955 Collection

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 1955
Gift of M. Balenciaga
©Metropolitan Museum

Red Evening dress from Balenciaga's Spring/Summer 1955 collection

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 1955
Gift in Memory of Mrs. Ethel S. Greene
©Metropolitan Museum

You can read our tribute to Balenciaga HERE

Wednesday Words of Wisdom From C.Z. Guest

New York socialite, prominent hostess, noted horsewoman, and lifelong member of The Best Dressed List, C.Z. Guest is quoted as saying:

"All the girls today want to be famous, but they haven't earned their spurs"

When taking inventory of American fifties' fashion icons, C.Z. Guest graces the list as royalty. Born Lucy Douglas Cochrane, she became known as C.Z. because of her younger brother's mispronunciation of "sissy."

C.Z. Guest in 1947 seated wearing a fur stole

C.Z. Guest 1947
Peter Stackpole
Google: Life

The stage was set for her ascension to fashion icon status when she married Winston Frederick Churchill Guest, a first cousin to Winston Churchill. Their wedding took place at Ernest Hemingway's home in Havana, Cuba. Hemingway served as best man.

Bonnie Cashin Before Coach

As with many fashion designers, American costume and sportswear designer Bonnie Cashin's creativity was inspired and encouraged by her mother. She explains her interest in fashion, "My mother was a dressmaker and before I could write, I could sew."

Magazine ad for Bonnie Cashin rainwear featuring a hat that resembles an Asian coolie hat

Bonnie Cashin Coolie Coat
Similar To Rain Wear in 1944 Laura

Cashin learned to design clothing that flattered bodies in motion while designing costumes for the Roxyettes at The Roxy Theater in New York City.

Her work caught the eye of a Harper's Bazaar editor who introduced her to the suit and coat manufacturer Adler & Adler. She worked for them for five years before accepting a commission to design uniforms for the United States' women's armed forces.

Native American Ballerinas Known as The Five Moons

Prima Ballerina Rosella Hightower in ballet pose

Considered an aristocrat of ballet dancing, Rosella Hightower died on November 4, 2008. Miss Hightower was a prima ballerina who performed with the world's finest dance companies.

Born of Choctaw descent in Durwood, Oklahoma in 1920, Hightower trained in New York and began her professional career in 1938 at the Ballet de Russe Monte Carlo. Her most sensational performance was in Swan Lake with her friend, Rudolf Nureyev.

Rosella Hightower is one of five Oklahoma ballerinas of Native American heritage who dominated international ballet during the 1950's. They were known as The Five Moons.

A member of the Shawnee and Cherokee tribes, Yvonne Chouteau grew up in Vinita, Oklahoma. At the age of fourteen, Miss Chouteau became the youngest dancer to be accepted by the Ballet de Russe Monte Carlo, dancing with them for fourteen years.

Where Was It Worn?

This silk with rhinestone evening gown was donated to the Metropolitan Museum by the lovely Diahann Carroll.

I always wonder where it was worn. Was it an awards ceremony? A charity gala? A movie premier?

I have looked at every Google Image and Pinterest photo there is of Diahann Carroll and although she is photographed in a lot of beautiful evening gowns, I can't find her in this one.

Oh well, it must have been a quiet evening without paparazzi.