The Crown Jewel of Costumes

One of the most prolific costumers in film history, William Travilla is best known for designing Marilyn Monroe's "subway dress" in The Seven Year Itch.

Called the "flying skirt" scene, Miss Monroe is standing atop a subway grate with the upward breeze sending the skirt of her now iconic dress billowing about her legs.

Marilyn Monroe in scene from Seven Year Itch where white dress billows around her showing her legs
Marilyn Monroe in William Travilla Costume
Seven Year Itch 1955
WikiCommons

While considered quite provocative in 1955, what I see in the pose that is said to have prompted the Monroe and DiMaggio divorce, is a beautiful young woman trying to keep her perfectly pleated dress from flying above her head. I see a glimpse of modest panties (she wore two pairs of panties) fitted snugly to well-toned thighs. I see her wearing stylish slingback heels and wonder how often those pretty heels got caught in the subway grate.

Front view of ivory colored dress with pleated skirt and halter neck designed by William Travilla for Marilyn Monroe in The Seven Year Itch
William Travilla "Subway Dress" Costume from Seven Year Itch
Worn by Marilyn Monroe
©Liveauctioneers

A seasoned costume designer credited in over thirty films, William Travilla had no reason to expect his designs from The Seven Year Itch would bring him special notoriety. Yet this dress would propel him, as well as Marilyn Monroe, into movie image history.


Knowing the film called for Monroe to stand above a New York City subway ventilation grate with the wind blowing her dress around her legs, Travilla chose a rayon-acetate crepe fabric cut on the bias with sunburst pleats (a knife pleat cut on the bias to produce a flared effect).

The man-made fabric was substantial enough to hold the pleated skirt's structure making the dress flow gracefully as Monroe walked yet was light enough to rise up appealingly with the wind from the vent.

Front view of ivory colored dress with pleated skirt and halter neck designed by William Travilla for Marilyn Monroe in The Seven Year Itch
William Travilla "Subway Dress" Costume for The Seven Year Itch
Worn by Marilyn Monroe
©Liveauctioneers

The cocktail style dress featured a halter bodice with a plunging neckline and softly pleated fabric around the back of her neck that left Monroe's back, shoulders, and arms seductively bare. The fabric fit snugly across her midriff and was secured with a tailored bow at the waist.

Close friends with Marilyn Monroe, William Travilla also designed her costumes for Don't Bother to Knock and Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

Debbie Reynolds bought all of Monroe's costumes from Twentieth Century Fox in a pre-auction sale in 1971. She sold her collection in June of 2011 with Travilla's "Subway Dress" selling to an unknown bidder for $4.6 million. The auction company received $1 million commission.


1 comment:

Anonymous said...

This is fantastic! Debby Reynolds bought the collection!